Torre Capitolare seen from above, among the rooftops of Portovenere and the harbor

Guide

Portovenere in winter

In winter Portovenere goes back to its residents: the village is quiet, the light is clear and the sea changes color by the hour. It is the right season for anyone looking for silence and views without the crowds.

What the weather is like

In January, in La Spezia, average temperatures range from 6 to 12 °C, so it is rarely really cold. The days are short and the sun sets shortly after five. When the libeccio wind blows, the waves break on the rocks below the church of San Pietro: a sight to watch from a sheltered spot. Bring a windproof jacket and comfortable shoes for the climbs.

Walk up to San Pietro and the Castle

Morning is the best time to walk up to the church of San Pietro, at the tip of the promontory: in the crisp air the coast of the Cinque Terre looks very close.

Then climb up to Castello Doria. On clear days, from up there, you can see the Apuan Alps, sometimes covered in snow. Opening hours change in winter, so check them before you go.

In the afternoon, walk along the row of seafront houses and stop at a café by the harbor, as the light fades and the colorful houses light up.

Reach the islands and the Cinque Terre

The boat to Palmaria leaves Portovenere all year round, with fewer departures in winter: on the island’s trails you can walk almost on your own.

For the Cinque Terre, the easiest option is the train from La Spezia: Riomaggiore is ten minutes away, and even in winter there are about two trains an hour. Around Christmas, a large illuminated nativity scene lights up the hillside of Manarola, with more than 200 figures made from recycled materials.

Come back to the Tower in the evening

Torre Capitolare is open all year round. After a day in the wind, in the evening the suite is all yours: one party at a time, up to four guests, with the terrace above the rooftops of the village. If you would rather stay in, on request we arrange a private dinner cooked by our chef. Breakfast and covered parking are included.

Stay at Capitolare Tower

A private 128 m² suite in a 12th-century tower, with a terrace over the sea of Portovenere. Breakfast and covered parking included.